My bike died twice Wednesday on the way home from work.
It would not crank, click, nothing. No tail light on ON, and a bit of light on ACC. After a slight rest, it kicked over and started. When I flipped the headlight toggle on, it died instantly. So I rode with the headlight off.
I got about 10 miles, and the bike died again. Same thing, no crank, no click, no lights.
I didn't want to stand around so I began pushing. I walked through 4 towns before I came to a bar where there were bikers who actually had some bike-smarts, and the desire to help me.
They hooked me up to a truck with some cables. I got full-brightness lights, so I suited up, started 'er up, and raced home sans headlight.
When I got home, I put a meter on the battery. Started out at 12 and change. When I turned the key, there was nothing again, and the meter dropped to 9, then 8, then 7 and change, and when it recovered, it only went to 10 and change.
The battery in the bike is an add-no-water type that's been in there less than 2 years. I still have an older wet-cell battery that was in there before the bike was rewired last year. I'm recharging both batteries to hopefully have some juice to start the bike to see if the alternator is putting out.
Should the act of trying to start the bike make the reading drop so drastically?
The bike was running perfectly prior to Wednesday afternoon, with no hint of problems.
I suppose now I should check the alternator's output. Two batteries have been discharged, but over seemingly long periods of time. If an alternator is not working, how long will a fresh battery last before being discharged enough to stall the bike? Could the ignition switch be the culprit? The light toggle? Could there be a dead short somewhere else?
Sorry for all the questions. Electrons puzzle me because I can't see them. Basically, what order would be best for checking stuff? Did I leave anything out? TIA.
Zip
It would not crank, click, nothing. No tail light on ON, and a bit of light on ACC. After a slight rest, it kicked over and started. When I flipped the headlight toggle on, it died instantly. So I rode with the headlight off.
I got about 10 miles, and the bike died again. Same thing, no crank, no click, no lights.
I didn't want to stand around so I began pushing. I walked through 4 towns before I came to a bar where there were bikers who actually had some bike-smarts, and the desire to help me.
They hooked me up to a truck with some cables. I got full-brightness lights, so I suited up, started 'er up, and raced home sans headlight.
When I got home, I put a meter on the battery. Started out at 12 and change. When I turned the key, there was nothing again, and the meter dropped to 9, then 8, then 7 and change, and when it recovered, it only went to 10 and change.
The battery in the bike is an add-no-water type that's been in there less than 2 years. I still have an older wet-cell battery that was in there before the bike was rewired last year. I'm recharging both batteries to hopefully have some juice to start the bike to see if the alternator is putting out.
Should the act of trying to start the bike make the reading drop so drastically?
The bike was running perfectly prior to Wednesday afternoon, with no hint of problems.
I suppose now I should check the alternator's output. Two batteries have been discharged, but over seemingly long periods of time. If an alternator is not working, how long will a fresh battery last before being discharged enough to stall the bike? Could the ignition switch be the culprit? The light toggle? Could there be a dead short somewhere else?
Sorry for all the questions. Electrons puzzle me because I can't see them. Basically, what order would be best for checking stuff? Did I leave anything out? TIA.
Zip

