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A: Adjusting bolts/nuts size

: Top Spring

The 163A springs are chrome, you can get the pair at a few places like www.paughco.com for around $50. They are regular replacement springer springs" Roadkill Savior

E: Bottom Spring: The lowers can be purchased at diamond wire.

http://www.diamondwire.com/ is the correct web address

I matched up a set of stock springs with part number DWC-192P-13

They are raw steel......I took my to a chrome plater with some other things and they fit the bike great. They also have them in stainless I believe.

Check them out for yourself on the site.....they have a program where you enter the numbers (width, length, wire size, etc.) and it shows the springs available. I would either go with the ones I listed or the next higher rated lb. spring. Roadkill Savior

F: Top Crown Nuts As far as the nuts go, your best bet would be to get a hold of working class choppers and get their solid steel chrome plated caps. They are $30 for 2 and worth it. You could put the new ones on top and the old ones on the bottom, or get all 4 new chrome ones. Roadkill Savior

Both the top and bottom Amen savior nuts are 1-1/8" X 12 TPI. (1-1/8"UNF or fine). Fastenal sells individual stainless nuts. You would have to cut some material off or split one nut in half to make two? 13tbucket

G: Bushings Those bronze oil lite bushings really need to be machined out. Got any tool and die shops around? I guy with a Bridgeport could do it in a minute. My local hardware store has bushings, check your ACO or True Value stores (if you have them). They will have to be pressed back in again, or you can throw them in the freezer for a little while and heat up the aluminum pieces a little bit then quickly tap them in. Roadkill Savior

They are 3/4" long 3/4" ID and 7/8" OD. McMaster Carr has them.
Why do they need to be machined out? There is only one oil-lite bushing in each housing. The step in the bore that they are pressed into is smaller than the ID of the bushing. Find a socket that is just over 3/4" OD but still fits in the bore. Turn the thing over and drive them puppies out of there.
I've done 3 sets this way, and have yet to have a problem getting any out or in. Its maybe a 45 minute job to do all 4. Blowin Smoke

Lubing maintenance

Take off the big top acorn nuts and douche everything down good with chain lube. Another thing-what kind of bottom nut does your plunger setup use? They're supposed to have a big acorn on top but a regular flat nut on the bottom. They aren't supposed to have an acorn on the bottoms like on my bike because they can fill up with water & rust the plunger stem solid Why do I do it anyway? 2 reasons; it looks cooler and I squirt the lower one up with chain lube after every wash or rain ride and bounce on the seat a few times.

Spoom

K: Axle: 14 ¾ long, threads are 1" long. 20mm

Note: cb750man says his is 14"

OLDHIPPY makes them

OLD HIPPY 2920 V.T. CRAWLEY RD. MORGANFIELD KY. 42437

Kikilikker says that DOHC axles are long enough

AMEN Savior axle is more like 13.25" 20mm rod with 3/4" NC threads on each end. 20mm is .787 but the finished size needs to be approx .782" to fit thru the plunger axles. 25/32" is .78125 You can use 25/32 "drill rod" stock available thru sources like McMaster Carr or Wholesale Tool Co. I think they sell it in 36" pieces and cost is less than $30. Using 25/32 means you don't have to hone the outside down like you would if you use 20mm drill rod....which is also available from those sources, as well as others.

Anti-seize?

You use it on the internal threads inside the vertical plunger pieces when you use the improvised tool to remove them from the cage. Otherwise they may gall. Also use anti-seize on the all thread rod on the tool, for the same reason.

Also use anti-seize or grease inside bronze plunger bushings to limit wear. The other place is where the large STEEL top and bottom nuts meet the ALUMINUM threads of the bushing housings. YOU SHOULD USE ANTI-SIEZE ANYWHERE YOU HAVE THREADS OF TWO DIFFERENT TYPES OF METALS. Blowin Smoke