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| Author | Comment | ||
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junglejoe39 |
Rusty gas tank |
Lead | |
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Friend of mine is trying to get his bike going after sitting in his garage for several years and the inside of his gas tank is pretty rusty. What is a good way
to clean out the rust and once cleaned out do you have to do anything to prevent the rust from coming back
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ubique2 |
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for us cheap bastards, I have used nuts/bolts to loosten the rust. It will work to get the big chunks out, but it will not clean it completely. Try using the
stripper from a tank liner kit. Something like POR15 (I think that is what it is in the States). Use the nuts to start and then switch to a chemical. Remember
to get it pressure tested after in case the rust managed to eat all of the steel away.
Maple Leaf Customs
I think I've lost my mind.....again My sandbox etiquette sucks but you all knew that.......and now I am off to the sandbox........ |
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unkle fester |
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"The Works" toilet cleaner.......copied from another forum......
I did my first gas tank clean out yesterday. I read the forums and decided to go with using The Works toilet cleaner. The amazing thing was I did it over
my lunch hour! I went home where I had everything ready and was done in an hour and 15 mins. The tank was in moderately bad shape with the entire inside
bottom covered in flaking rust, no leaks though with the outside in great shape. Here is how I did it;
In the end it was very easy and quite fun to see the accomplished task. The only things I would change would be possibly filling the tank with warm water after pouring in The Works. The Works seems so strong that I feel you could dilute it with a full tank of water and let it sit for an hour and have the same results. I was really amazed at how fast acting it was. Also using Drywall screws is much better than bolts and other screws IMO, they are quite sharp and cut right through the rust in only a few minutes of shaking. It was a very cheap fix costing me less than $8. Yep, its called "The Works" and you can find it at Walmart and Fred Meyer for under $2. And yes it eats aluminum, it's active ingredient is Hydrogen Chloride. I made sure I took the petcock out first. Anyway, I looked at all the bathroom toilet cleaners and several of them had HCL, but usually between 5% and 9%. The Works has 20% HCL, that is why it works so well and so fast. That is also why I think it would work well even diluted. The nice thing is I saved the chemical for later use. It doesn't even change color after dissolving the rust so I can still use it to clean toilets if I want |
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Javahut |
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HCL, and the works and most toilet bowl cleaners is Hydrocloric Acid, in a 20% solution is nearly as strong as Muriatic acid, which you swimming pool guys can
correct me here, is about 23% by definition. the works is probably a cheaper alternative to hardware store stuff anyway.
This is great info to know, and I for one, thank you for posting this idea.
H.C.C.M.F. Local 6978
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alanshivley |
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good FAQ topic??
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Houndog750 |
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It was Honda first, all through the middle, and if I have my way, till the end as well.
Most people say what they'll do. Very few actually do what they say. |
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unkle fester |
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I copied it from a post on the SOHC4 baord..................
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junglejoe39 |
Thanks guys | ||
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Passed the info along to my friend and he appreciated it
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paladin333 |
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There is a simple way of forcing the rust to plate a sacrificial electrode (steel or iron), but the process can take quite some time. Needed are a battery
charger (a weak one will do) or other power-source (an old step-down power brick for an discarded electrical device will work if you slap a couple alligator
clips on the leads), a piece of bare mild steel or iron as large as you can find that will still fit through the gas-cap opening without touching anything,
water and washing soda (Arm & Hammer brand will do nicely).
Remove the fuel-tank sender assembly, the petcock, the gas cap assembly, and any other removable items from the gas tank. Seal up all the holes in the tank except the gas cap filler hole (using plastic or rubber -- do not use aluminum), so that it's water-tight. Mix 1 Tablespoon of washing soda per gallon of water and fill the tank with the mixture (note: stronger will not accelerate the process, so don't go overboard). Without plugging it into the wall, connect the battery charger or other power source as follows: positive to the mild steel or iron part, and the ground to the gas tank itself (such as to a screw that normally holds in the petcock). You need to make sure that the lead to the mild steel or iron part will not touch the tank's metal, so insulated wiring is smart. Figure out how to support the steel or iron part in the tank without touching the sides or bottom, and without forming a grounding circuit to the body of the tank (a bit of nylon mesh attached to a plastic ring too large to pass through the opening of the tank will work wonderfully -- or some nylon twine tied off to something above the tank). Lower the metal into the tank and double check that it's not touching anything except the solution. Now you're ready to energize the system -- plug in the charger. How long the process will take will vary with three factors: the amount of surface area of the metal piece being suspended into the solution, the amount of power running through the solution, and how much rust we're dealing with here. In particularly bad cases, you may have to drain/rinse out the tank every 12 hours, wipe down the metal, then start over. If the mixture looks like a dark red stew, definitely time to change it. You will also need to top off the mixture with additional water if the level falls, as the process cooks off water (electrically rips it apart).
twist the throttle until the thrill of speed overwhelms your fear of death
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vtxman |
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LOL,, Sound alot like how I would boil noodles in the gray bar Hotel
I woke this morning and got myself a beer. yeah,I woke this morning and got myself a beer.
The futures' uncertain and the end is always near !! ( Jim Morrison ) |
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mike7772 |
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RUSTEY GAS TANK THROW AWAY REPEAT THROW AWAY ,,,JUST JOKING
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