And instead of the fork tubes sliding into the tree and clamping, make it so the the nut on the top of the tube is removed and a stud is made to screw into the tree and the tube, making the top very clean.
![]() |
Hondachopper.com's
Community Board is sponsored by its dedicated members and the G.O.T.F. THANK YOU! |
![]() |
| Author | Comment | ||
|---|---|---|---|
Realwildman |
Top tree ?? | ||
|
I like to see a top tree like LRT's but that is shaped like a triangle instead of a L.
And instead of the fork tubes sliding into the tree and clamping, make it so the the nut on the top of the tube is removed and a stud is made to screw into the tree and the tube, making the top very clean. |
|||
Jerry Sexton |
|||
Realwildman wrote: I made one like that once. It does make for a very clean look. Here are some old pictures. I no longer own the bike so this is all the pics I have.
|
|||
Ricky Racer |
|||
|
That's sweeeet, Jerry! Did the tubes penetrate the top triple a little, or did they butt up against it? RR
|
|||
Turbogrimace |
|||
|
I second wildmans request, those are "sweeeet" if I may borrow RR's words. Id be down for a set.
~Grimace |
|||
Javahut |
|||
|
the idea is not lost nor being ignored, I'm paying attention, and I am sure Matt is too. Like to hear more from Jerry on the tops, looks as if a stud/screw
goes thru the trees from the top into the tubes?
H.C.C.M.F. Local 6978
|
|||
Realwildman |
|||
|
Just a little more info
I was thinking that the stud would thread it to the top clamp and the tube would thread onto the stud. That way there is not a hole all the way through the top clamp. This has been an Idea I been kicking around since I got my machining tools. Just don't have a boring head for the mill yet. |
|||
Jerry Sexton |
|||
|
I machined away the hex portion on top of the nut that goes into the tube. Then made a plug to go into the bottom of the nut and welded it in. Then I drilled
and tapped the plug 1/2-13. I jam nutted the nut to screw it into the tube. The bottom side of the tree is counterbored. The tube slips up into the
counterbore and then I used a flat head to screw down through the tree and into the nut / plug in the top of the tube. Hope that makes since.
|
|||
Javahut |
|||
|
I am going to try and draw that. I think I understand, but that also means there is a hole thru the triple trees, attached at the top with 1/2 x 13 screw.
which go9es thru the tree and into the cap/plug? Correct?
SO the counter bore is for the diameter of the tubes and the diameter of the turned down cap/plug screw? Actually, sounds like it will be simpler drawn than spoken.
H.C.C.M.F. Local 6978
|
|||
woogaus |
|||
|
Ok, I see that this is an older thread, but something I've been thinking about is a blanking plate for the stock oil filter location, I've been
thinking about a relocation kit for mine so that I could rework my forward controls and move them up a bit higher so I don't have to worry about catching a
peg in the corners, but I haven't found any kind of blanking plate for the stock location and without that, I can't really justify relocating the oil
filter.
|
|||
Ricky Racer |
|||
|
Okay, I'm going to toss this out for discussion... Java, if your machinest friend wants to produce triples or tops it'd be good to not forget the other
side of the aisle: the cafe racers. They need their top triples to have the tubes going completely through the top triple to adjust their front end height for
improved handling.
Also, please remember that if the tubes are only butted up to the top triple, your potential users on both sides of the aisle will be limited by their existing selection of fork tubes to the lengths that will work for their chassis with this design. I'm sure CycleX will be happy because it means a lot more tubes sold of varying lengths, but I'm not sure your customers want to fork over an additional $150 just to be able to use this design. Also, as cool as full billet triples are, a full set is probably a little rich for most of us. Better to have a top replacement to fit a stock bottom, that will also fit with a matching custom billet bottom. Best of both worlds. Just my $.02 of input. RR |
|||