they may depending on how far out you move your axle. I run Die springs from mcmaster car, they got different sizes and strengths
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Too much rake
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 hellbilly1932 |
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Posts: 3022 (04/30/08 6:44 PM) Senior Member |
"Done? Yeah it's
done!"
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CrazyRoy |
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Posts: 125 (05/01/08 3:25 AM) |
Cool, I'll see if I can get some coming. Makes sense to me. I moved the axle out 4 inches and down about and inch.
CrazyRoy from Iowa
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dockruzic |
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Posts: 81 (05/01/08 6:47 PM) |
If you don't mind 2 cents worth. I've been studying rake and trail for about 1 1/2 yrs. there are 2 schools on it and some people use what is called
true rake and trail. I'll get to that later. I spoke to SugarBear over the summer and he taught me a lot , he loves the 750 and was one of the 1st. to chop
them, I think. But his zero rake is because of the excessive length and weight of he forks and should not be used for regular rakes , ie 16 over and under. He
also drops the bottom leg to create a self righting effect.what Your lower leg ought to be about 1/2 to 3/4 in. below the axle when measured from the ground.
This will give you the proper response to road bumps. The axle path will be up and away from the impact. Are your tree offset? ( I don't mean raked) ,and
if so how much? Many people in the chop biz use the old rake trail method of drawing a line down the steerer tube to the ground then measure back to the centre
of the tyre. engineers use what is called true trail. Use the same steerer line to the ground . Then using a right angle ( anything 90 deg. ) come down the
steerer line till it bisects the centre of the tyre contact patch. ( Actually they use something called the centroid of the tyre contact patch, it is slightly
behind the centre of the line drawn straight down from the axle. This point is where the leverage of the tyre plays on your ability to turn or lean,) The
parameters for good handling is 1 1/2 in. to 5 in. 1 1/2 in. is very quick handling, like a race set up super bike. I would stay between 3 in. and 5 in.. Also
if you can get a shim stack washer dampening shock for it it will work better and what ever springs you use get progressive ones as they will REALLY help out
with a plush ride on the little bumps and save your kidneys on the big ones. If this doesn't make sense call me @ 865 455 6349 and I will help out all I
can ,Doc
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CrazyRoy |
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Posts: 126 (05/02/08 9:05 AM) |
Thanks for the info Doc. My triple trees are not offset, they are parallel. I made a pattern for a new set of rockers, using my old ones for the placement of
the bolt holes for the legs and moved the axle holes forward 4 inches and up about an inch. I raised the axle holes like Sugar Bear does and I believe they are
about the same as his #3 rockers. I pretty much free-handed the curves, with the help of some assorted plastic lids and kept comparing them to his rockers, so
they look similar. I should have about 4 inches of trail when they are done. I dont have any rear shocks, so the progressive springs are out and decided to use
inner springs instead of shims.
CrazyRoy from Iowa
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dockruzic |
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Posts: 85 (05/04/08 5:49 AM) |
I hope that it works well. Remember the added leverage that the new off set will create. Also look around for some progressive springs , you will be truly
thankful for the time and effort. Also I,m looking for a shim stack washer shock to use on my springer ,if I find one I'll let you know. Later this summer
I plan on building my own fork, a redo on the harmon spurder with a hydraulic dampener that I designed over last summer.
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